Aniseed Plait

Aniseed Plait (Photo Vanessa Courtier)

On the plantation at Skeldon, most families usually ate homemade breads and cakes but my hopes were always raised when I saw the baker’s delivery boy from the neighbouring village, the carrier on his bicycle filled with breads such as this simple but delicious aniseed plait. While researching the history of Dutch baking, I was delighted to find that there is a similar loaf in the southern province of Zeeland. The chief difference between this loaf and the one of my childhood is that it usually contains some nutmeg and a hint of mace and it is baked in a tin. Nowadays I often bake a hybrid version with the optional mace and nutmeg. Well wrapped, this will keep for a few days and also makes good toast. Serve sliced, with butter and a slice or two of mature cheese.

Oven: preheated to 200°C/390°F Tin: large baking sheet, greased

Baking time: 30–35 minutes

To bruise the aniseed, simply put the seeds in a mortar and bang them with a pestle. Put the flour, yeast, sugar, salt and spices in a large bowl. Add the milk, butter and egg and mix with a spoon or spatula until the dry ingredients are well moistened. If you are kneading by hand, turn out onto a floured surface or a silicone mat and knead until elastic. Alternatively, use a heavy-duty mixer fitted with a dough hook and knead until elastic. This dough needs to be a little stiffer than for a panned loaf as it must hold its shape during baking. Shape into a ball and place in a large bowl. Cover with clingfilm (plastic wrap) or a tea towel wrung out in hot water and leave in a warm draught-free place until doubled in bulk. Knock back the risen dough and knead lightly until once more smooth and elastic. Divide it into 3 equal portions. Shape each portion into a rope about 50 cm/20” long, making the middle of the rope a little thicker and the ends tapering. Pinch the tips of the three ropes together at the top to seal and plait the strands a little loosely, pinching the bottom ends to seal. Place diagonally on the greased baking sheet. Cover loosely with lightly oiled clingfilm and leave in a warm draught-free place until doubled in bulk. This step is very important because if the loaf has not been allowed to expand fully, it will burst in the oven. Bake for about 30-35 minutes, or until brown. To test, remove the loaf from the tin. Tap sharply on the bottom; it should sound hollow. Cool on a wire rack. From Warm Bread and Honey Cake (Pavilion 2009; Interlink 2010. Translated into Dutch as Zelfgebakken, Kosmos Uitgevers 2011. Photography Vanessa Courtier.)

Ingredients